FAQ — “Which lens should I Buy?”
As someone who is pretty good at taking photographs, I get stopped all the time in the street. “Hey, Tom! How are you?” they say, “I saw those shots on your awesome site of Ocean Colour Scene. Man, I wish I was there!” Usually at this point they’re looking in their pockets for their autograph books. “I’ve been getting into photography myself, what kind of lens do you recommend?”
Well, okay, it doesn’t normally go like that. Usually, the people wanting my autograph are wearing brightly coloured waterproof jackets, carrying clipboards and asking for money. I normally tell them to shove it. Unless she‘s cute.
Sorry, I digress. I often trawl the discussion groups on Flickr and one question that pops up incredibly often is in regard to which lens to buy: In most instances, the person has narrowed it down to a few and is asking for help deciding between them from those that may also have that lens - standard stuff for discussion groups like this, and it can get quite interesting looking at the technical nitty-gritty of it all. On semi-rare occasions though, you get the likes of the following:
“I’ve just got my Sony A230 the other week with the 18-50mm and the 55-200mm kit lenses, and I want to buy another lens. I want to get better pictures”
Following this, you get a very long thread full of well-intentioned suggestions, where few of them will actually be of any use to the original poster, and even less will be affordable. I’d like to help, but not like this — instead, I’d like to show you how to narrow down the choice and work out what you need yourself. I’ll teach you the Zen of Gear Acquisition.
Think of me as the bastard offspring of Martin Lewis and Buddha.
Anyway…
Let’s look at why all the responses are — for lack of a kinder term — rubbish. I have found that it seems to revolve around one particular word in that sentence: “better”.
Think of it another way — you need a new car, want a “better” one than before and you know very little about cars, but you do just so happen to know someone who’s pretty clued up about motoring. He drives you to the nearest Mercedes garage and convinces you that the SLR is definitely the car for you. It’s more powerful than most cars, pretty good looking, nice interior and all that. However, he’s forgotten that you only really need it to get from work and back, and that you live out in the country with no tarred roads to travel on, and you’re driveway is a 25% gradient uphill. Really, “better” for you would be a Land Rover — that’ll be the last time you take Michael Schumacher’s advice.
Introspect
How do we avoid this happening then? By doing just that — asking questions. Being critical and analytical of yourself and your work is a vital skill for all photographers (and to be honest, I think many of us can benefit from a reality check once in a while). Be specific — if you do not like a picture, think about exactly why you do not like it. Write it all down somewhere, all the problems you see with it that you would want to change.
Now things get brutal. You’ll have heard the expression “a bad workman always blames his tools?” Your lens is a tool, and I bet you most of the things you listed are your fault, not the lens’s. The kit lenses are not the greatest in the world, but in the right hands they can achieve surprising results — they really are better than a lot of people give them credit for.
Experiment…
…A lot. Most lenses (even some very expensive ones) work at their best in a fairly narrow range. Lenses work best when light is focused precisely where it needs to be, and the more extreme settings on the lens does push very close to the limits, so sometimes backing apertures and zoom ranges back a little towards the middle-settings can make for better pictures. If you want a head start, look up reviews for the lens online, particularly user reviews — normally, people will have found these “sweet spots” and will share happily.
Still not getting the results you wanted? Let’s look at the kinds of things you want to shoot, and perhaps look at the little things most people disregard. Like shooting portraits, or shooting in lower light evironments? Consider a separate flash unit — used properly, flash can allow for some very interesting effects. Think about it — “photo” means lights and “graph” is to record, so if you control the light you control the recording. You become an artist, rather than an observer — perhaps that thought appeals to you?
Also, a commonly underrated piece of gear is the tripod, particularly of landscape work. A decent tripod should cost less than most lenses, but a really cheap and nasty one can ruin a shot. A good one will stay planted no matter how windy things get, and allows for very long exposures and some potentially interesting effects.
Lastly, it’s also worth looking at your computer, or rather the software on it. I did things backwards, getting into digital photography because of a need for material to work into some photo-montages I was planning (and never did). With a decent image editing program (some of which can be had for absolutely nothing) you open the door to a whole new world of creativity. One thing I will say though — don’t take a photo thinking you’ll fix it later. Just don’t. Trust me, you won’t fix it.
Retail Therapy
So none of the above applies, and you’ve found some “thing” in your images you definitely need a lens to improve on. By now, you’re probably in the Zen mindset I mentioned earlier — you’re doing well, grasshopper.
At this stage, it’s still important to keep a critical head about you — what exactly is it you need out of your purchase? There is no perfect lens in the world, so keep in mind that you will likely have to make some kind of compromise somewhere along the line. A good example would be in something like the Tamron 18-270mm superzooms — it’s an amazing zoom range, and should do virtually all situations. The problem is the apertures are very narrow (the max apertures range from f3.5–6.3). As a gig photographer, I couldn’t make use of this lens at all as it’s just not going to perform in low light environments — however, someone going on a backpacking holiday to the Philippines is likely going to be travelling light and in constantly very bright conditions, where these drawbacks are much less problematic.
It Really Works!
Let’s go through an example. A real life one too — let me tell you about how I decided upon my Tamron 17-50mm f2.8. As you know, I mainly shoot concerts, which generally are in poorly lit conditions. I have a Sigma 30mm f1.4 already, but what with it being a fixed focal length I found it impractical to use in the photo-pit — I couldn’t get wider shots as I physically couldn’t move further back, and I couldn’t get closer to get tighter head shots either.
So, I’ve narrowed things down already — I need a zoom lens, and it needs to be fast. I had a look online and whittled a list down — but what zoom range to go for? Well, my 30mm was getting decent shots most of the time, so I considered that to be a mid-point — I want one that’s both a bit wider than that, and also with more telephoto. There were a number of lenses in the 28-70mm range, but that doesn’t give much more of a wide angle, so I ruled them out. It left me with a few choices, namely the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 and the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8.
I had a look at a few reviews. I looked at past discussions on Flickr. I asked some friends. I tried them both in a local camera shop. I compared prices. The Tamron fared better in all counts, so I bought it. I then went and shot Ocean Colour Scene and the Editors with the lens, and was absolutely ecstatic at the results.
Zen?
Maybe not, but hopefully some of this information is going to be useful to a prospective lens buyer. Knowledge is power, and power can stave off GAS…


















